Many of the problems that occur in lawns each year are the result of improper maintenance practices.  The following guide will enable you to greatly reduce the likelihood of incurring problems in your lawn, simply by maintaining it properly.  If you have any questions about our recommendations, or would like further details concerning them, please contact our offices at (717) 299-2112 or toll free at 1-888-246-5433.

MOWING:

For most people cutting the grass is a weekly routine.  Since mowing is performed so frequently, doing it improperly can lead to severe problems.  Therefore, to keep the lawn healthy, it is important that several guidelines are followed.  If you use a lawn service, be sure they are willing to mow the lawn according to these guidelines.  Lawn mowing services generally try to mow as many lawns as possible in a fixed amount of time, which means they may be tempted to cut corners.  If you take the time to convey your wishes, however, most mowing services are generally flexible in how they cut the grass. After all, they want to keep you happy!

The first cutting in the spring and the last cutting in the fall should be at a height of 2"- 2½".  If you are unsure of how high to set the mower to get this height, we recommend lowering the mower two notches from the height you normally mow at during the year.  These two “low” cuttings help to prevent disease activity during the winter and remove worn or damaged grass blades in the spring.  Mowing the lawn low the first time will also help revive the plants’ systems and promote early spring growth.  The lawn should be mowed at 3"- 3½" for the remainder of the growing season.  Again, if you are unsure of how high to set the mower to get this height, we recommend choosing its highest setting.  On most mowers, the highest setting falls between 3” and 3½”.

Mowing at the mower’s highest setting is the simplest way to make a dramatic improvement in the health of the lawn.  Mowing high allows the lawn to establish a vigorous and extensive root system (the higher the grass blade, the deeper the root system).  With a deep, strong root system, a lawn becomes significantly more drought, insect, and disease tolerant.  Mowing high also provides more shade to the soil from the hot sun, which keeps the soil moist longer (from rain and dew) and prevents many weeds from getting the sunlight they need to germinate.

Now, let’s all pause for a little common sense.  If you are among the legion of “I hate to mow the lawn” people, this is for you.  Please do not scalp the lawn down to a living room carpet so that you will “not have to mow as often.”  If you are reading this information you must have at least some interest in a healthy lawn and that is NOT going to help you achieve one.  Mowing “with a vengeance” will only transfer your frustrations from the pain of mowing every week to the pain of “my lawn keeps dying every year.”  If you feel that the lawn grows a bit faster when you cut it higher, you’re right!  In simple terms, that means it is healthier!  Hey, isn’t that what we are trying to achieve?  Besides, most people end up mowing once a week, regardless of how high the lawn has grown.

In technical terms, the lawn should be mowed when the grass reaches a height 1/3 greater than the height at which you normally mow.  That is, a lawn cut at 3” should be cut when it reaches @ 4".  This means that the lawn may need to be mowed more than once per week in the spring, and perhaps only once every two or three weeks in the summer.  Please note that it is more difficult to establish a thick, dense turf at the 3"- 3½" range in the middle of the season because a majority of the plant's development occurs in the spring, so let the lawn grow high as early as possible!

When mowing, the clippings should never be removed, unless they are so long and heavy that leaving them may smother the lawn.  The clippings return water and many valuable nutrients to the soil.  It is a myth that leaving the clippings creates lawn thatch.  Thatch is a layer of dead roots and crowns that is naturally produced by grasses.  Thatch will only cause a problem if it builds up to a ¾” or greater layer.  This will only happen if the biological activity in the soil (which naturally decomposes the thatch) is killed or suppressed on a regular basis, as occurs when using typical chemical products.

The lawn should never be cut in one uniform direction all year long.  This stresses the same grass plants each time, not allowing them sufficient time to recover.  It also tends to create subtle grooves of compacted soil over time, further stressing the same grass plants.  Pushing the grass in the same direction time after time will force it to naturally lean in that direction, causing an uneven cut with the lawnmower and increasing the lawn's susceptibility to injury.  Three or more varying patterns should be used, alternating between each pattern at least every other mowing.  This will also improve the aesthetic appearance of the lawn.

Always remember to mow at a reasonable pace and keep the mower blades sharp!  Mowing too quickly or using dull blades will tear the grass (as opposed to cleanly cutting it) and leave it extremely vulnerable to insect and disease damage.  If you seem to have a brown haze over the lawn when other lawns are still green, it is likely the result of dull blades and/or mowing too quickly.  Blades should be properly sharpened after every 6-8 hours of use.   

WATERING

Since many of the problems that occur in the lawn show up during heat and drought stress periods, one of the best deterrents to these problems is maintaining a sound watering program.  Before you just go out and water, however, it is important to realize that improper watering is far more detrimental than beneficial.

Watering is only helpful after the soil reserves are nearly exhausted.  In the clay-based soils of our area this depletion generally takes 1½ - 2 weeks of hot, sunny weather with no rain.  Typically, if the lawn needs water it will begin to wilt, its color will fade and footprints will stay compressed for more than a few seconds when you walk across the lawn.  If this situation arises, a lawn will not necessarily be injured if it is not watered, but it will be more susceptible to potential problems since it will enter a dormant state.  When a lawn is dormant it cannot fight off potential problems like it can when it is actively growing.

    To properly water, the entire root zone of the plant must be saturated.  Applying less water will force the roots to reach toward the surface for water, causing a weaker, shallower root system and thereby reducing its drought resistance and increasing its susceptibility to insect and disease damage.  It generally takes 1" - 2" of water to properly saturate a lawn’s root zone.

    If you are unsure of how long you need to water to saturate the root zone, you can set a rain gauge or a coffee can under the sprinkler to measure the water.  Please note that it can take a good bit of time to really soak a lawn.  If necessary, concentrate on one section at first and move to different sections as you find time.  Even if you do not apply enough water to make the lawn appear as though it is growing again, the water that is supplied will keep the lawn’s internal systems from completely shutting down, which will aid in its ability to fight off potential problems. 

   As for when to water, the morning, after the dew has dried, is generally recommended.  However, if you follow the proper guidelines for watering, it is generally safe to water at any time.

    If you ever have any questions at all please give us a call at (717) 299-2112 or toll free at 1-888-246-5433.  We will be happy to answer all of your questions and help every way that we can!